Triplog Links

Solo Autumn Ride through the Kumaon Hills (Day 1) – Nainital – Almora – Berinag – Chaukori

Solo Autumn Ride through the Kumaon Hills (Day 2) – Chaukori – Thal – Tejam – Munsiyari

Solo Autumn Ride through the Kumaon Hills (Day 3) – Munsiyari – Tejam – Kapkot – Bageshwar – Gwaldum

Solo Autumn Ride through the Kumaon Hills (Day 4) – Gwaldum – Kausani – Someshwar – Ranikhet – Nainital

Route Map:

Notes to a 20yr older me.

Day 4 (final day): Gwaldum – Kausani – Someshwar – Ranikhet – Nainital – 175Km

Again woke up early before sunrise and went down the Gwaldum-Dewali road (around a Km) to get a good spot to photograph sunrise. It wasn’t so cold as in Munsyari. While I was taking the pictures of the sunrise, met a person who was out for a morning walk and we struck up a conversation. The person had served in the ’71 war somewhere in the East and told me a couple of stories. We then returned back to town and had tea together.

Sunrise @Gwaldum
Sunrise @Gwaldum

After returning to the room, packed and left. Unfortunately the GMVN guesthouse was not serving breakfast. At a nearby shop I picked some biscuits and chocolates.

From Gwaldum, I descended down to Baijnath. Just before the Bageshwar road intersection, there is a village called Dangoli. The village is on the banks of Gomti river I went down to the river hoping to get a frame with the river flowing and the snow-capped peaks in the top. Didn’t have any luck with that.

Turner round to get to Baijnath. The old temples looked spectacular against the towering snow-capped peaks.

Baijnath temples under the towering Himalayas

From Baijnath the road ascends to Kausani with its perfect panoramic views. The road condition is excellent and it is a pleasure to drive on.Just before Kausani, I stopped to buy soem local tea leaves.

At Kausani, I visited the Anashakti Ashram and saw the museum there. Then roamed around to find a good spot to take a panoramic view. Finding a perfect spot around near the KMVN guesthouse I clicked some good pictures.

Himalayan Panorama with Garur Valley @Kausani
Himalayan Panorama @Kausani

After Kausani, again the road descends to the town of Someshwar and its spectacular valley with terraced fields. I was still undecided on whether to return to Nainital via Almora or Ranikhet.

Just then a call came from home. Papa suggested that I go via Ranikhet and meet with bua who stays there. The decision was made for me. The regular route from Someshwar to Ranikhet is via Dwarhat. There is an alternate route which goes via Majkhali. Deep & I had one taken this route. It goes though some pristine pine jungles.

Terraced fields of the Someshwar Valley


Someshwar Valley along Kosi River

River Kosi is said to originate here in this valley.  After Someshwar, I stopped at a juice processing place. They had small outlet outside the factory.

I took a break and drank a few bottles of juice, sampling each of the varieties they were selling. After the juice factory, a small road cuts towards Majkhali. I turned in that direction.

This was probably the loneliest road I had been on this trip. In the entire 25Km stretch I saw two women collecting fodder and one car coming from the opposite direction.

Temple overlooking the valley

Few Km before Majhkhali, I found a vacant temple with a small ground. Took a break and slept in the sun for half an hour before heading towards Ranikhet.

At Ranikhet, it took me a little while to find Bua’s house.It was nice meeting Bua after so long. She is pretty old and frail. I recall the good times we had when she used to visit Nainital in summers. 28 years have passed. Deep dada and Bhabhi were also there. Tea and snacks later I was on my way to Nainital

Ranikhet to Nainital is a short distance which I made in no time and was soon home before 1800.


After the trip I became very sick. I believe it was due to the food orgy I had in Delhi while coming to Nainital. It probably gave me some sort of food infection. Took me around two weeks to recover.

So another trip well done; another item checked off the list. And on the way I added a few more to the list. I hope at your age you are continuing adding items to the list.


Trip Stats:
Distance: approx 650KM
Fuel consumed: Rs900
Food Cost: Rs400/-
Lodging: Rs3400/-